Now more than ever, the time is ripe to celebrate the rich diversity of Canada’s culinary scene. Wherever you go in this vast country, delicious experiences await. The fun is in finding them. Here, we travel from coast to coast, through cities, towns and countryside, discovering brave new enterprises and checking up on a few well-established favourites. Each of the places we’ve chosen has a unique vibe – its own way of doing things – but there is one essential quality they all have in common: These are true passion projects, created by people who put their heart and soul into every detail. And the authenticity shows. You feel it when you walk into a new brewery that has quickly become the hub of a community. You taste it when a chef sources pristine ingredients from a local farm and then makes spectacular magic in her kitchen. You know it when a certain cocktail bar is the only spot in the neighbourhood you want to be when happy hour rolls around.
Canada is in the mood to make merry; here’s where the parties are happening.
British Columbia
A great virtue of Western Canada lies in the way other culinary traditions are welcomed and quickly woven into the cultural tapestry.
House of Boateng Café
Champion chef, caterer, teacher and entrepreneur Castro Boateng brings a unique sensibility to his food, introducing Ghanaian and Caribbean flavours and long, slow cooking to the pristine local produce of Vancouver Island. A patient guy, he slowly got his brunch customers acquainted with African spicing; now they beg him to bump up the intensity and comb the monthly dinner menus in search of new culinary adventures. The consciously casual café has become a gathering place in downtown Langford, while Boateng’s HOB Fine Foods gourmet store, a few doors down the street, is packed with pantry items and frozen ready-made meals.
2854 Peatt Rd. #105, Victoria
houseofboateng.ca
Tocador
It’s no surprise that Tocador – the creation of two renowned Vancouver mixologists – has some of the most vibrant and original cocktails in the city and a collection of rums that would make any connoisseur gasp. The original Miami-Cuban inspiration seems to have relaxed into a more general Latin American vibe, mirrored by a menu that ranges from bar snacks to tacos to steak and beans. Like the bright, lively room itself, that suits the neighbourhood crowd just fine.
2610 Main St., Vancouver
tocador.ca
Yukon
This far north, the growing season is short and sustainability comes with the territory. The chefs here have it all figured out.
BonTon & Company
When Shelby Jordan built a one-woman butcher shop behind her house in Dawson City, she was planning to morph it into an all-day, year-round restaurant that would work closely and sustainably with local suppliers. In 2020, hospitality veteran Dennis Dunn helped make that dream come true. Every night, the timber-framed café-cum-store turns into an intimate dining space where evening chef Ariel Adams offers a constantly changing menu of small plates that showcase her sophisticated, cosmopolitan take on seasonal Klondike ingredients. Half of them are plant-based, but Jordan’s expert in-house charcuterie remains BonTon’s raison d’être. Firmly set in the community, this neighbourhood jewel is now drawing attention from across the country.
878 3rd Ave., Dawson City
bontonandco.ca
BonTon’s Open-Faced Roast Beef and Beet Sandwich
GET THE RECIPE
Alberta
Alberta’s chefs aren’t scared to do things their own way – and we wouldn’t have it any other way.
JinBar
Does superstar-chef Jinhee Lee, the Canadian Culinary Champion in 2017, miss the pressure of haute cuisine? She hides a laugh behind her hand. “Right now, I’m really enjoying this. Less pressure; more fun.” “This” is JinBar, a colourful, casual, vibrant space where Lee can show her affection for simple Korean comfort food – especially Korean-style fried chicken, which is twice cooked for extra crispiness, then glazed with sauce while it’s still hot from the frying pan. Drinks – merry mixological experiments with ginseng, yuja and other notes from the Asian flavour arsenal – follow suit.
24 4 St. NE, Calgary
jinbar.ca
JinBar’s Ahi Tuna Crudo
GET THE RECIPE
Manitoba
Winnipeg continues to be galvanized by exciting new ventures that proudly draw on Manitoba’s unique farmed and foraged harvests.
Good Neighbour Brewing Co.
The company’s name could also be its motto: Manitoba’s first all-female-owned brewery is built on collaboration. At its heart is the coordinated vision of beer-industry veterans Morgan Wielgosz and Amber Sarraillon. Across the courtyard is Good Neighbour’s own new brewery, adding wild and barrel-aged beers to an already impressive list.
116 Sherbrook St., Winnipeg
goodneighbourbrewing.com
Deer + Almond
Chef Mandel Hitzer has been leading Winnipeg into the culinary future for a decade now, first with his innovative restaurant, Deer + Almond, and then with extraordinary pop-ups such as RAW:Almond, which, pre-COVID, set up under canvas on the ice of the frozen Assiniboine River for three weeks every winter. Hitzer’s recent venture is the seriously elegant D+A Café in the EQ3 furniture store in Winnipeg’s Polo Park. A keen forager, he delights in sourcing rare Manitoban treats for his customers – everything from Hudson Bay seaweed to superb HyLife pork (which is usually all sold to Japan) – and incorporating them into small-plate menus that encourage sharing. D+A received a total makeover during COVID, and Hitzer found that his passion for cooking was similarly re-energized. Winnipeg’s gourmets can’t wait to see what he does next.
85 Princess St., Winnipeg
deerandalmond.com
Ontario
While Prince Edward County grows ever more sophisticated, Toronto is finally learning to relax.
Merrill House
After a dazzling international career in the luxury hospitality industry, Jordan Martin de Rosales came home to Canada in 2018 and bought Merrill House, a much- loved boutique hotel in Prince Edward County. One major restoration later, the Gothic Revival mansion has become a very exclusive destination, redesigned by de Rosales as a home for his antiques and art collection. During the reno, chefs Michael and Lili Sullivan toured Alsace, Burgundy and the U.K. and returned with new inspiration for finessing their already lauded wine-country cuisine. Guests can explore the hotel’s spectacular PEC and French wine collection through appreciation classes, tour the private museum or just relax in the outdoor barrel sauna. Formal afternoon tea beside the fire should not be missed.
343 Main St. E., Picton
merrill-house.com
Bar Mordecai
Picture a space like a luxe, sultry hotel lobby bar inspired by Wes Anderson movies. Now factor in a dazzlingly contemporary cocktail list full of variations on the classics and braided with subtle Caribbean nuances, courtesy of co-owner Christina Veira’s Jamaican background. No wonder every night at Bar Mordecai turns into a party. Chef María Arispe’s small plates, which reference Spain and Argentina, are served tapas-style, so if you come with an appetite, you can graze without interrupting the drinking and conversation. A cool patio is ready for summer, while downstairs private karaoke rooms have their own flamboyant themes (’70s Vegas wedding chapel, ’60s Elvis) and their own list of decadent punches and cock- tails in cans. Other unique drinks, like the glittering Pisces freezer cocktail in a bag, are available to go.
1272 Dundas St. W., Toronto
barmordecai.com
Bar Mordecai’s Daybreak in Trelawny Cocktail
GET THE RECIPE
Spy Cider
Orchard-to-table rules at Spy, where every seat has the local’s-eye view. Sweeping vistas of the region accompany flights of sustainable ciders and spirits, masterfully crafted to reveal the character of the fruit. (Blue Mountain’s apples are renowned.) Book a tasting online.
808108 24th Sideroad, The Blue Mountains
spydistillery.com
Langdon Hall
Imagine one of England’s great country house hotels being magically transported to Canada, complete with rolling lawns, woods for afternoon walks and a state-of-the-art spa. Every elegant detail of this century-old property exemplifies sophisticated luxury, but the overall mood is much more romantic than stuffy. Dinner in the restaurant deserves the whole evening. Chef Jason Bangerter has been here for almost a decade, foraging for wild treasures on the 30-hectare estate and finding inspiration in the hotel’s splendid kitchen garden. His exquisitely plated dishes are full of lucid, deeply satisfying flavours – and now he has gathered his favourite recipes into Langdon Hall: A Cookbook, a lavishly illustrated volume worthy of this exceptional hotel.
1 Langdon Dr., Cambridge
langdonhall.ca
Langdon Hall’s Citrus Semifreddo with Lemon Curd and Coconut Lime Yogurt
GET THE RECIPE
Quebec
Whether they’re creating a bespoke salad or a single perfect caramel, Quebec’s culinary artists and artisans prefer to deal with their customers one-on-one.
Bika Farm & Cuisine
After 14 years spent wowing Montreal with her Turkish restaurants, Su and Barbounya, chef Fisun Ercan and her partner have moved to pastures new – specifically, an 1850s farmhouse where she can grow her own produce and cook it for customers in her spacious kitchen barn. In some ways, it’s also a journey into her past and the way her mother cooked in the small Aegean village where Ercan grew up. Everything is harvested by hand or bought from neighbours who share Ercan’s respect for natural, sustainable growing, and the lucid flavours she conjures onto the plate are a revelation.
980 Chemin du Grand Bernier Saint-Blaise-sur-Richelieu
bika.farm
Bika’s Artichokes With Green Peas, Broad Beans and Sabayon of Verjus
GET THE RECIPE
Dinette Nationale
The irresistible aroma of caramel lures you into Catherine Lépine-Lafrance’s charming little café and store, a place of delicious discoveries. She is Montreal’s finest artisanal confectioner – precise in her artistry and a perfectionist when it comes to her (often locally sourced) ingredients. She also believes that confectionery should always be fun, never pompous, hence the name “Dinette” – a children’s make-believe tea-party game. All the scrumptious cakes, pastries and cookies on the counter are made here, including adventurous treats like chocolate-black-olive shortbread. But there’s also a section for products from elsewhere – jars of exquisite ingredients and little gifts that share Dinette’s playful but uncompromising aesthetic.
8111 Rue St. Denis, Montreal
dinettenationale.com
Mandy’s Gourmet Salads
In Montreal, Mandy and Rebecca Wolfe are known as “the Salad Sisters.” Eighteen years ago, they set up a worktop and a fridge behind a curtain at the back of a clothing store in the tony Westmount neighbourhood and started making customized salads for customers. Word of mouth did the rest. Today, they have eight stores in Quebec and new location in Toronto. The secret is über-fresh ingredients and the cleverly contrasting textures in Mandy’s recipes, which cover the bases, from vegan to animal protein; there’s even a smoked- meat salad. The menu is rounded out with soups and smoothies and – a reward for the righteous – their famous chocolate chip cookies.
425 Rue St. Nicolas, Montreal, and other locations
mandys.ca
Mandy’s Togarashi Steak Salad With Toasted-Sesame Dressing
GET THE RECIPE
Prince Edward Island
The cozy island should not be overlooked.
Copper Bottom Brewing
With a gorgeous patio view down the Montague River, this brewery is a popular hub – and not just for the excellent beers that Ken Spears has been brewing here since 2017. His wife is folk singer Ashley Condon, and she curates a top-notch live-music program on the property. As for food, the couple have used European beer halls as a model, allowing customers to bring in whatever they wish to eat – although there’s also an in-house menu of locally made snacks. But those beers…Spears has an ever-changing rotation on tap, including lip-smacking barrel-aged ales, wild ferments and powerful seasonal stouts.
567 Main St., Montague
copperbottombrewing.com
New Brunswick
The province’s star spots have loyal followings in tight-knit communities.
11th Mile
After 20 successful years in Toronto, chef Peter Tompkins and mixologist Jennie Wilson came home to Fredericton and opened a place of their own. “Once people here realized we weren’t being unnecessarily fancy,” says Wilson, “they became fantastically loyal.” Now, customers love talking to her about the shrubs and house-made syrups that go into her seasonal craft cocktails and starting up conversations with Tompkins when he brings out dishes from the open kitchen. The menu changes all the time, but there might be a riot if his signature beef tostadas or togarashi popcorn were ever to disappear.
79 York St., Fredericton
11thmile.ca
11th Mile’s Lemony Roasted Broccoli with Walnut Crema
GET THE RECIPE
Nova Scotia
A new generation of Halifax chefs – many of them women – is stepping away from cliché and showcasing the province’s bounty with unpretentious passion.
Bar Kismet
An evening in this intimate, prettily decorated room is like a perfect dinner party thrown by consummate hosts: You never want it to end. Behind the bar, Jenner Cormier and his team create complex, precisely calibrated cocktails with house-made infusions, syrups and powders. In the kitchen, Annie Brace-Lavoie and her brigade source the finest produce from specific local farmers and fishers. This chef is in love with pasta. She wouldn’t dream of serving a vegetable that isn’t at the peak of its season, and she has a talent for preparing seafood that very few Maritime restaurants can match.
2733 Agricola St., Halifax
barkismet.com
Bar Kismet’s Chicory and Bagna Càuda
GET THE RECIPE
Field Guide
This is the super-friendly North End neighbourhood spot that kick-started Halifax’s craft-cocktail scene back in 2013. The surprise was that it also served excellent food, a tradition that’s been continued by chef Natalie Rosen, who works wonders in the open kitchen using nothing but a domestic four-burner stove. (Pork tacos and beef tartare are favourites, but vegans and vegetarians will not go hungry.) Meanwhile, the list of classic and intriguingly innovative cocktails is as compelling as ever.
2076 Gottingen St., Halifax
fieldguidehfx.com
Newfoundland & Labrador
Over the past 10 years, St. John’s has come of age as a gastronomic hub where chefs from both home and away are strutting their stuff – and the rest of the country is taking note.
Terre Restaurant & Café
What made top Montreal chef Matthew Swift and his partner suddenly move to St. John’s? They loved the warm welcome, the excitement of the burgeoning culinary scene – and the chance to create a unique local restaurant in the city’s smart new Alt Hotel. Terre, a clean-cut modern space with mesmerizing views of the harbour and a convivial mood, opened in July 2019. Guests can linger over small plates at the bar, but the best way to experience Swift’s technically meticulous, open-minded approach is to choose the chef’s menu. Fascinating plates featuring seafood such as hand-caught scallops or sea urchin, wild game and top local produce – whatever is perfect that week – will appear. Sunday brunch has earned a loyal local following.
125 Water St., St. John’s
terrerestaurant.com
Chinched Restaurant & Deli
For chef Shaun Hussey and his partner, pastry chef Michelle LeBlanc, Chinched is a labour of love. In Newfoundland phraseology, the name means “tightly stuffed” – an accurate description of the way one feels after dinner at this cozy, laid-back spot. Hussey is a master of nose-to-tail charcuterie (take some home from the deli counter near the front door), and his wild-nettle chorizo sausages are almost as famous as the house specialty, crispy pigs’ ears. The list of beers represents just about every craft brewery on the island.
5 Bates Hill, St. John’s
chinched.com
Former Favourites
These eateries have closed, but their recipes remain among our go-tos.
Wayfarer Oyster House, Whitehorse
Anywhere in the world, a good oyster house always feels like a party. That’s the vibe at Whitehorse’s Wayfarer, a collaboration between Yukon’s first oysterman, Andrew Seymour, smoked-fish specialist Eddie Rideout and chef Brian Ng. The whimsical decor (a gilded oyster-shell chandelier, for example) and irresistible cocktails contribute; so does Ng’s enthusiasm for Thai, Italian and Chinese flavours. Fresh pasta is always on the menu, but don’t miss the mussels with lemongrass and grilled-chili dipping sauce.
Wayfarer’s Seared Albacore Tuna With Coconut Broth
GET THE RECIPE
Ayden Kitchen & Bar, Saskatoon
When renowned Vancouver-based chef Dale MacKay moved back home to Saskatoon in 2013, he was determined that his new restaurant, Ayden, would showcase the best of the prairies. Mission accomplished. The handsome heritage building has a welcoming vibe, and food is served family style on harvest tables that have a view of the open kitchen. But while the menu reads comfort, the look and taste of each dish is a testament to the chef’s refined technical standards. Here, “farm to table” means that certain favoured growers work pretty much exclusively with MacKay, supplying his (now five) restaurants, while the cocktail program subtly but consistently pushes the local envelope.
Ayden’s Ricotta Gnocchi With Tomato-Butter Sauce
