Nanaimo Ice Cream Bars

Named for the city in British Columbia, the Nanaimo bar – a no-bake dessert bar consisting of a coconut-graham crust, thick custard and chocolate topping – has long been considered one of Canada’s most famous treats. In her book The Wanderlust Creamery Presents: The World of Ice Cream, Adrienne Borlongan (the owner of California’s Wanderlust Creamery) shares her take on a frozen version. Borlongan writes:

“These ice cream bars – a frozen rendition of a famous Northwestern Canadian dessert named after the Canadian city, Nanaimo – are incidentally inspired by another frozen treat named after another Canadian landmark: the Klondike Bar. But instead of plain vanilla ice cream encased in milk chocolate, this is a yolky custard vanilla ice cream enriched with ghee (to imitate a Nanaimo bar’s buttercream) with a graham/coconut/almond crust, encased in a crispy shell of salted dark chocolate.”

Nanaimo Ice Cream Bars

Adrienne Borlongan's recipe for a frozen version of the classic Canadian Nanaimo bar.

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Course Dessert, Snack

Cuisine Canadian

Servings 8 ice cream bars

Ingredients

  

Dark Chocolate Flakes

• 2 tbsp + 1½ tsp refined coconut oil be sure to use refined to avoid any unwanted coconut flavour
• 5 oz (150 g) dark chocolate chopped

Base

• ½ cup + 1 tsp granulated sugar
• 1 tbsp + ½ tsp nonfat dry milk powder
• ½ tsp tara gum optional
• ½ cup glucose powder
• 1 cup + 2 tbsp whole milk
• 3½ tbsp + 1 tsp sweetened condensed milk
• 135 g egg yolks from about 8 large eggs
• 1 vanilla bean split lengthwise
• ¾ cup + 3½ tbsp heavy cream
• 1 tbsp + 1½ tsp ghee
• heaping ¼ tsp kala namak Indian black salt, plus more to taste (optional)

Nanaimo Crust

• 3¼ oz (90 g) semisweet chocolate
• 2 tbsp corn syrup
• ⅓ cup + 1 tbsp whole milk
• ¾ cup + ½ tbsp heavy cream
• ½ tsp agar-agar powder
• ½ cup graham cracker crumbs
• ½ cup toasted coconut
• ½ cup slivered almonds

Ice Cream Bars

• Dark Chocolate Flakes
• flaky sea salt for sprinkling

Instructions

 

Dark Chocolate Flakes

• In a microwave-safe bowl, microwave the coconut oil until it registers at least 130°F (55°C) on an instant-read thermometer.
• Add the chocolate and let sit for 30 seconds. Using a whisk or flexible spatula, stir the mixture until all the chocolate has melted. If the chocolate does not completely melt, microwave the mixture in 20-second increments, stirring after each.
• Transfer the mixture to a container that can be poured from, such as a liquid measuring cup. Let the chocolate cool to a tepid temperature in which it is still liquid and pourable, about 80°F (25°C). If using at a later time, transfer and store the chocolate in an airtight container at room temperature. Gently remelt the chocolate in a double boiler or in a microwave. If using a microwave, heat in 30-second increments, stirring after each. Cool the chocolate again to 80°F (25°C) just before ice cream assembly.

Base

• Prepare an ice bath by placing a shallow baking dish nestled inside a roasting pan filled with ice and a little cold water. The ice and water should not go more than halfway up the pan. Add ice as it melts, but do not let the water rise to the level of the top of the baking dish.
• In a small bowl, whisk together the sugar, milk powder, tara gum (if using) and glucose powder. In a tall cylindrical 1.5 litre (1½-quart) mixing vessel, blend the milk, condensed milk and egg yolks with a hand blender. Add the dry ingredients and blend again to dissolve all the solids.
• Pour the mixture into a medium saucepan. Scrape the vanilla seeds into the mixture and add the pod. Cook over medium-low heat, whisking constantly, until it reaches 165°F (75°C) on an instant-read thermometer.
• Once the base reaches 165°F (75°C), immediately remove it from the heat, fish out the vanilla pod and pour the mixture back into the tall mixing vessel. Add the heavy cream and ghee and blend with a hand blender for 2 minutes to fully homogenize.
• Pour the base through a fine-mesh sieve into the prepared ice bath to cool. Whisk in the kala namak (if using), adding a little more at a time until the desired flavour is achieved. Remember that the final flavour of the ice cream will be muted once frozen.
• Once completely cool, transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate for at least 12 hours and up to 3 days.
• When ready to begin, line two metal loaf pans with wax or parchment paper. (Alternatively, you can use silicone loaf pans.) Place the loaf pans in the freezer to chill. Quickly blend the ice cream base once more with a hand blender or whisk before pouring it into an ice cream machine. Churn the ice cream until it reaches the texture of very stiff soft-serve and the surface looks dry, about 25°F (–5°C) or colder on a thermometer gun.
• Divide the ice cream evenly between the chilled loaf pans. Press a piece of wax paper directly on top of the ice creams and place them in the freezer while preparing the crust.

Nanaimo Crust

• Place the dark chocolate in a small heatproof bowl. In a small saucepan, bring the corn syrup, milk, heavy cream and agar-agar to a boil. Remove the mixture from the heat and pour it into the bowl over the chocolate. Let the mixture sit for 1 minute, then using a whisk or flexible spatula, stir the mixture until all the chocolate has melted. Let the chocolate cool to a room temperature.
• Stir in the graham cracker crumbs, toasted coconut and slivered almonds. Allow the mixture to cool.
• Take the ice cream pans out of the freezer and spread the chocolate mixture evenly on top of each pan. Be sure to cover the top of the ice cream completely. Return the pans to the freezer and let the ice cream harden completely, 6 to 8 hours.

Ice Cream Bars

• Line a small baking sheet with parchment or wax paper. Take one loaf pan out of the freezer (leave the other pan in). Carefully unmold the ice cream from the pan onto a cutting board, with the crust-side down. Working quickly, slice the ice cream block crosswise into 4 slices. Place the slices on the parchment-lined baking sheet and return them to the freezer. Repeat with the second loaf pan.
• Place the Dark Chocolate Flakes in a tall mixing vessel and allow to temper to 80°F (25°C).
• Working with one ice cream bar at a time (leaving the others in the freezer), coat the bar completely in the chocolate by picking up the container of chocolate with one hand and tilting it at a 45-degree angle (to get a deeper amount of chocolate to dip into) and use a fork in the other hand to pierce the ice cream bar and dip it in the coating to fully cover it. Working quickly before the coating hardens, sprinkle the top of the ice cream bar with sea salt, then return it to the lined baking sheet in the freezer (see note).
• Once the chocolate coating has hardened, individually wrap each Nanaimo bar in plastic wrap until ready to serve.

Notes

The ice cream bars must be extremely cold and hardened when dipping. If not cold enough during dipping, any melting ice cream can break the emulsion of the liquid chocolate. This may be very difficult to achieve with a home freezer if you live in a warmer climate. Instead, I urge you to use the quick-freezing method:

1. Place your finished ice cream pan in an insulated container like a cooler or Styrofoam box with a lid.
2. Place a 5-pound (2.3 kg) or greater block of dry ice on top of the ice cream. Close the cooler and let it sit for 30 to 45 minutes.
3. After the ice cream has frozen solid, use well-insulated hands (cloth oven mitts work well) to transfer the ice cream pan to the freezer.

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