In Vienna, food is revered— so much so that the city treats dining as a ceremony. There’s even a word for it in Austria: tafelkultur, which translates to “table culture.” It’s an idea that elevates eating among friends to an art form. One that creates beauty in an everyday task and redefines the table as a canvas of self-expression.
“Tafelkultur has deep roots in Austria, from the Habsburg Monarchies and their strict etiquette and emphasis on elegance and ritual, to the Viennese avant-garde movement, led by artist Gustav Klimt in the late 19th century, which redesigned everyday life,” says Vienna-based tableware designer Onka Allmayer-Beck.
“They were shedding light on objects such as cutlery, tableware and textiles, like napkins and tablecloths, and treating a dinner table almost like a little stage and as a status symbol.”
Dining Like An Empress: The Royal Origins of Tafelkultur
The introduction of porcelain to the country around 1718 had a profound impact on the tafelkultur, according to Austrian art historian Annette Ahrens. In those days, royalty would carry around their own sets of cutlery that only they would eat with. Empress Maria Theresa, archduchess of Austria, for example, tucked her personal set into her dress, bringing it to social events.
This was done for both practical and societal reasons. She was afraid of being poisoned, but her luxurious cutlery also showed off her status as a member of high society. Empress Elisabeth, often referred to as Sisi, also used specialized travel cutlery for voyages on her yachts. Her collection included a silver-plated alpaca set with a dolphin motif.
Modern Day Tafelkultur: A Unique Form of Self-Expression
The art of tafelkultur is always evolving, developing trends that reflect the times. Today, we’re less afraid of being poisoned at dinner parties— obviously.
Allmayer-Beck has made pieces for Michelin-starred restaurants like Mraz & Sohn and Rote Wand in Austria. She says the practice now leans into table decor to portray our personalities and sense of style. Gone are the days of white porcelain and basic, delicate shapes. In Vienna, tafelkultur has evolved— and the rest of the world is following suit.
“People are coming back to curating tables a bit more. They’re doing it for the joy of living— everyone needs a little pick-me-up. And people are cooking less, in my opinion, so they instead prefer to use tableware to impress and make things more playful again,” she says.
“It’s become more like fashion. You don’t just wear anything, you thoughtfully select things that speak to you and that are interesting to you and can live with you.”
Harmoniously Designed: Bringing Food and Art Together
Essentially, tafelkultur is all about creating a masterpiece that uniquely represents you. “Trends are going toward the use of courageous ceramic in the use of gastronomy,” Allmayer-Beck adds. “So it’s not all fine and delicate, it’s got a bit more oomf. All of my pieces are created as a sort of centrepiece for a table. They each work as they are, but you can put flowers, candles or fruit, or serve a whole chicken in everything.”
That’s an important note, Allmayer-Beck says. The food and the dishware come together in concert to create the art— the pieces are not meant to stand on their own without the food in them.
“My plate is the final compliment to the food, a little wink that makes it feel extra special,” she says. “The relation between the chef, the food, the artist and the plate is like a cross-pollination on an inspirational level.”
“True Luxury”: How To Incorporate Tafelkultur In Your Tablescapes
Since the late 20th century, fashion houses like Ralph Lauren and Versace have leaned into the idea of table culture as an art form. In addition to their clothing lines, they offer homeware collections. Jean-Paul Vaugoin is the current owner of Jarosinski & Vaugoin, a long-standing family silverware business. He says this stems from an increased appreciation for craftsmanship.
“The big fashion houses and luxury brands are noticing that their products are not as special anymore,” Vaugoin, who has designed pieces for Versace and Prince William, says. “It’s more and more a mass product, so they search for unique, small companies. The true luxury is not the expensive bag, but rather a product that is especially made for you.”
Silverware, Vaugoin says, plays an important part in tafelkultur too. It naturally catches the light in a beautiful way. But it also has historical importance as one of the oldest methods of making cutlery. The concept of a traditional tablescape with cutlery, candle-holders and a centrepiece can take so many art forms when playing with colours, shapes and styles.
Vaugoin says the magic and the artistry of tafelkultur lies in the combinations. “I love the mix-and-match,” he says. “It could be a modern table, a casual dinner–if you add some silver pieces, you’re never wrong.”
His advice for creating a tablescape at home is to treat every day like a special occasion, combining the vibrancy of pieces like Allmayer-Beck’s with classic silverware. “I feel that life is too short to keep the good things in storage,” he says. “Nowadays, silverware is dishwasher-safe and can be used every day. It’ll give you a good feeling with every use and, of course, it’ll underline the special moments of eating with your family and friends.”
Feeling inspired? Explore unique tableware for your next tablescape
- The Whimsical Kitchen Decor Trend We’re Loving Right Now — Bring joy and a sense of play into your tablescapes with polka-dotted egg cups and Christmas tree-shaped bonbon containers.
- The Beauty of førs’ Remarkable Ceramic Tableware — These sculptural and sustainable pieces exemplify the studio’s tagline, “our intent is essentially poetic.”
